One of my mantras is never use an inflexible finish on a flexible seat. Hard, surface floating finishes like Shellac, lacquer and traditional polyurethane wont flex with the seat as it is used and this could have contributed to its deterioration. But there may be other factors such as UV damage if this chair sat in a location with bright sunlight it could be ruined quickly, old or poorly stored splint can break in that short of time. Or if the edges haven't been filed round or someone is standing on the chair regularly. Weave it once more with a new hank of splint and oil stain it to the desired shade. Use Oil/ turp or Danish Oil and let them know how to protect their seat from damage but tell them this restoration is on the house but if it happens again you will have to assume they are not caring for the seat properly. I have written care instructions for each type of seat to give to the customer when they get their newly restored seat. It acts as a reminder that they have to be kind to their chair if they want it to last.
I recently got a chair back after less than a year because the splint snapped along the edge of the frame. Almost like it had been cut. I had sealed it with orange shellac to get the color they... more
Jan, In the 35+ years I've been weaving, I've seen this happen MANY times, that's why I always try to convince the customer to use something other than flat reed splint. This breaking has only... more
Re: breaking splint Mindy King - the chair weaver,Fri Jun 22 12:08am
As a relative newbie (15 years) I had never thought of giving customers written instructions. That's a great idea. I usually know what to say when customers ask questions but the written ones are... more
You can read my care sheets on my Facebook page and Cathryn has something similar at her WickerWoman web site. We recommend using them as templates for your own care sheets. After all you may... more
Thanks Mindy, I'll check those out. I don't feel like a newbie doing hand cane or pressed cane. I now feel comfortable with fiber rush, thanks to help from a couple of other caners. I feel most like... more
mindy, some of us are not yet into the 21st century and don't "do" Facebood...! could/would you please post your care sheets in some other format? i give my customers care sheets but would love to... more
Larry, Mindy probably has all her care sheets posted to her website like I do, so check that out. http://www.ChairWeaver.com The Wicker Woman®--Cathryn Peters... more
Actually I don't have them there yet but will soon. In the mean time Larry and I have exchanged care sheets via Email. if anyone else wants so see them send me a message. clicking on my name in blue... more
You're welcome Larry, that's what we're here for--help, advice and sharing all aspects of chair seat weaving, since 2004. Truly the Seatweaving & Chair Caning Forum--The Caner's Community Hub™ The... more
It was Cathryn's forum and the openness in sharing information that inspired the SeatWeavers' Guild. When I called for the formation of the SeatWeavers' Guild in 2007 right here, the belief shared by ... more
Thanks, all. I am reweaving it (at no charge, of course >:( ) and I had thought to find an oil stain to match the color. Doesn't Danish oil have to rubbed in? And wouldn't that rough up the edges of... more
the reed will soak up any oil finish like a sponge, but you may want to pat off any excess after a few minutes an beware oily rags can spontaneously combust so lay them over a saw horse or on a... more
when i first learned caning from a fellow named cliff pair he showed me a formulae that he had used for the thirty or so years he had been caning and i use it on splint and have never had a customer... more
Maybe the edge isn't round enough. There should be a much rounder edge than when caning, minimum 1/4 inch radius if the frame is flat. If the cane hasn't been soaked long enough, then it will break... more